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The Roots #Vol.3 Military

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Things that change. And things that don’t.

Military fashion has now become an integral part of everyday life. It can be called the ultimate workwear focused on productivity and function and is also the prototype for outdoor wear.

This time, we’re focusing on the most representative items among the myriad of military wear: the “MA-1 (Flight Jacket)” and the “M-51 (Mods Coat).”

First, about the “M-51 (Mods Coat).” The Mods Coat originally refers to the military parka “M-51” developed by the U.S. Army for extremely cold regions, and coats with a similar silhouette.

The features of the “M-51” include olive-green fabric, a zip-up and snap front, a large hood and flap pockets, a waist-adjustable drawstring, and a longer rear hem with a split at the end known as the “fishtail” silhouette. It also comes with a detachable pile liner and cold protection fur.

The “M-51” was used in conflicts like the Korean War in the 1950s and later found its way to the market as military surplus. In the 1960s in London, young people called Mods started wearing it because of its high functionality, distinctive silhouette, and its compatibility with their style of suits & polo shirts. Part of the reason was to keep their cherished suits clean while riding scooters. This style became widely known through the 1979 movie “QUADROPHENIA,” and at the same time, the “M-51” became recognized as a fashion item known as the Mods Coat.

Next, about the “MA-1 (Flight Jacket).” It refers to the nylon flight jacket introduced by the U.S. Air Force in 1950.

The high altitudes at which fighter and transport planes fly present an incredibly harsh environment, with significant changes in temperature and atmospheric pressure. Consequently, flight jackets must provide not only protective features but also cold-resistance.

With this in mind, they established a five-tiered “Adaptation Zone” system based on altitude and temperature, and developed flight jackets accordingly:

Very Light Zone: 30℃ to 50℃
Light Zone: 10℃ to 30℃
Intermediate Zone: -10℃ to 10℃
Heavy Zone: -30℃ to -10℃
Very Heavy Zone: -50℃ to -30℃

Out of these, the masterpiece “MA-1” was born in 1950, modified specifically to cater to the Intermediate Zone (temperatures ranging from -10℃ to 10℃).

The jacket features a compact short length to not impede movement inside the aircraft. Its nylon body achieves lightweight, and ribbing around the neck and hem ensures mobility and cold protection. There’s a tab on the chest to secure communication cables and oxygen mask hoses. Enhanced functionality is also evident in features like the pocket on the left arm. Another significant characteristic is the use of a fluorescent color called Indian Orange to ensure easy discovery in case of emergencies.

By the way, why are we so drawn to military wear? Although military wear, which should be the polar opposite of fashion, serves its original purpose in the military, it strangely persists in our lives as everyday wear or fashion.

Wearing military attire doesn’t mean one is fond of conflict. Surely, we are purely attracted to its refined, no-frills design and functional beauty. The popularity of vintage pieces and the abundance of reproductions may be a testament to the lasting practicality and unchanging nature of military wear, reflecting our respect for it.

As a “constant presence” that continues to be loved without change, it’s indeed a captivating item.

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